Bearded Dragon - Leather Back *AS IS*
Bearded Dragon - Leather... $139.99
Defining Characteristics: Hardy Easy-going, inquisitive personality Vast array of beautiful morphs Omnivorous Very thoroughly researched and well understood Recommended Enclosure:  Bearded Dragons are active, semi-arboreal lizards, and will only thrive in enclosures that allow them to get the exercise they need. A 24x18x18 enclosure will house a baby animal for the first few months of its life, but it will quickly outgrow this size enclosure. By the time they reach adult size, they should not be housed in an enclosure any smaller than 4'x2'x2'. Naturally derived fine-grain sands such as Zoo Med Reptisand works great as a substrate, and can also have organic topsoil and trace amounts of non-expanding clay added to aid with burrow retention. Impaction is not a risk as long as proper husbandry standards are maintained. Substrate should be spot-cleaned when soiled. Calcium and Vita sands should not be used. Non-loose floor coverings such as slate tile can also be used, but should be cleaned regularly to avoid bacterial growth. Being semi-arboreal lizards, plenty of low-lying climbing opportunities need to be provided for Bearded Dragons to exercise properly. Cork bark and manzanita branches are an excellent option to achieve this. Any heavy material should either be resting on the bottom of the enclosure or secured to the walls, as Bearded Dragons are strong, heavy bodied animals that could easily crush themselves when digging underneath cage decor. Feeding: Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, and require both insect feeders and leafy greens/vegetables as a part of their staple food rotations. It is especially important to maintain the correct balance of insects to greens, which will change as the lizard ages. Babies will require around 80% insects to 20% plant matter, whereas adults will require around 20% insects to 80% plant matter. The easiest way to accomplish this is to offer greens daily, and gradually reduce the amount of insects offered as the animal ages; babies should be offered insects approximately twice a day, and adults should be offered insects about 1-2 times a week.  We provide all of the feeder bugs you will need! A staple of crickets and dubia works best, with other feeder insects (waxworms, hornworms, superworms, etc.) being offered as occasional treats. Offering insects in an escape-proof feeding bowl will minimize the number of bugs that escape and hide among the enclosure. Feeder insects should be gutloaded the day prior to feeding and dusted with a vitamin/mineral supplement. Always read the label of any supplement offered to ensure your animal is receiving appropriate amounts of calcium and vitamins. Knowing what greens and vegetables to offer can be tricky, and it is always best to consult a feeding chart before deciding what to feed. In general, leafy greens high in nutrients should be staple, with other vegetables mixed in for variation. Fruits can be offered as treat items. Avoid Iceberg and Romaine lettuce, as they are both lacking in nutrients, and avoid avocado, citrus fruits, mushrooms, onion, and rhubarb, as they are all  toxic.
Snake Corn - Baby Anerythristic
Snake Corn - Baby... $129.99
Defining Characteristics: Nocturnal Popular small snake species Interesting Colours and Pattern morphs Recommended Enclosure: Baby corn snakes can easily live in a plastic vivarium the size of a large shoebox for the first several months of their lives. Adult corn snakes need a cage at least the size of a 20-gallon long reptile terrarium, but bigger is even better. Snakes are not social animals, so cage-mates are quite stressful. All snakes are escape artists, so make sure the cage is absolutely escape proof. Snake habitat products like climbing branches may be appreciated, but a couple of dark, tight reptile hides are essential to help the snake feel secure. Feeding: The primary natural food of corn snakes is appropriately sized rodents. Some baby corn snakes also eat lizards or an occasional frog. Adult corn snakes may eat birds or their eggs. Do not offer crickets because corn snakes don’t recognize them as food. Hatchlings normally eat newborn mice. Increase to a jumbo mouse for a large adult corn snake. Most corn snakes learn to eat previously frozen, but fully thawed out, mice. Be prepared to offer a live newborn mouse to baby corn snakes stressed by a new home or not used to thawed mice yet. It usually won’t take many times to train them to take thawed mice. Placing your corn snake and a thawed mouse in an empty container with a few air holes and closing the lid will help the snake concentrate on the food, and encourage it to eat. Be sure the lid is on tightly, and don’t put it near a heat source, or you risk overheating the snake. Cuts made into the skin of a thawed mouse ensure faster and more complete digestion. Feed baby corn snakes once every five to seven days, and feed adult corn snakes once every seven to 10 days.
Gecko Crested - Juvenile
Gecko Crested - Juvenile $179.99
Defining Characteristics: Nocturnal Arboreal Great First Pet Gecko Easy to Breed Interesting Colours and Pattern Recommended Enclosure: A 20 gallon or 18x18x18 terrarium is suitable for 1 adult, but there's nothing wrong with providing extra space. A 29 gallon tank or 18x18x24 will comfortably house 2 adults. Be careful when cohabiting crested geckos, especially of the opposite sex. Coco Fibre or a mix of coco fibre and peat moss works well as a substrate. Provide branches, standing cork, or tall or hanging plants to make your arboreal geckos feel at home. Feeding: Crested Geckos are omnivores. They thrive on a staple diet of fruit mixes and may also be offered crickets or dubia roaches. Waxworms, black soldier fly larvae, and butterworms make a great occasional treat. All feeder insects should be dusted with a vitamin/mineral supplement and fed in an escape proof bowl.
Gecko Leopard - High Yellow
Gecko Leopard - High... $119.99
Defining characteristics: Beautiful colours Nocturnal, terrestrial gecko Hardy and easy to care for Excellent beginner gecko Calms down with regular handling Recommended Enclosure: Juveniles can be kept in an 18x18x12 enclosure. A single adult should be provided with at least a 24x18x12 glass enclosure. Paper towels provide an easily replaceable substrate. Loose substrate like sand (do not use calcium or vitamin-based sands) can be used so long as it is spot cleaned; impaction is a minimal risk provided proper hydration, basking temperatures, as well as a cup of calcium in the enclosure to minimize substrate consumption. The best setup involves multiple hides placed on both the warm side and cool side of the enclosure, as well as at least one humid hide. Feeding: Leopard geckos are insectivores and will thrive on a varied diet of feeder insects. Hatchlings are large enough to fed a staple of ¼-inch crickets or dubia roaches, which should be provided in a feeding dish. Within a few months, leopard geckos can begin feeding on a staple of mealworms. Waxworms, butterworms, and small hornworms make excellent treats, but should only be offered occasionally. Feeder insects should be gut-loaded and dusted with a calcium and multivitamin supplement. 

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